Free Crochet Pattern: Griddle Stitch Mitts

mitts modeled

New free pattern: quick and cozy griddle stitch mitts to get ready for fall! Keep reading for the pattern and an introduction to the griddle stitch.

Despite the date, it was a whopping 92 degrees in Washington DC yesterday. I’ve been begrudgingly sipping iced coffee instead of steamy cappuccinos, but I refuse to put off my cold weather crafting any longer! So I whipped up these fingerless mitts, and hopefully cool and crisp fall weather will soon follow.

The main part of these mitts is crocheted with the griddle stitch, which is a stitch pattern where you alternate sc and dc stitches, swapping the order each row. It makes for a really beautiful fabric where the rows are almost indistinguishable. For the cuff I used a crochet ribbing made with sc stitches in the back loops only. Take a look at this closeup–you can see the very distinct, stretchy rows of the BLO sc compared with the pebbly and solid griddle stitch.

mitts stitch comparison

Let’s get right into the pattern! You can find a PDF version of this pattern on Ravelry here. You’ll need a 3.75mm hook and 1 skein of sport weight yarn (I used Premier Yarns Serenity Garden (Sport) in “Earth”, but I think that particular line is now discontinued).

Griddle Stitch Mitts

Cuff

Ch. 13.
R1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 12. Ch. 1, turn.
R2-38: In BLO, sc across (12). Ch. 1, turn.
To connect the two ends of the cuff: sl st through both layers across (12)

NOTE: The griddle stitch pattern is that you sc in every dc from the previous round and dc in every sc from the previous round. By the nature of this stitch pattern, you’ll have an odd number of stitches for each round and each round will alternate starting with a sc or a dc.

Mitt

Ch. 1.
R1: sc 39 st evenly around the edge of the cuff. (39)

R2-8: (sc 1, dc 1) around without joining at the end of each round. (39)
[alternate which stitch you start with each round to maintain the griddle stitch pattern. Ex: R2 will be (sc 1, dc 1) around, R3 will be (dc 1, sc 1) around, R4 will be (sc 1, dc 1) around, and so on.]

R9: (dc 1, sc 1) in each of the next 2 sts. (dc 1, sc 1) around for the remaining 37 sts. (41)
R10: (sc 1, dc 1) in each of the next 4 sts. (sc 1, dc 1) around for the remaining 37 sts. (45)

R11-17: (dc 1, sc 1) around. (45)
[alternate which stitch you start with each round to maintain the griddle stitch pattern]

R18: Ch. 3, skip first 11, then dc 1 in the 12th st (this creates the thumb hole). (sc 1, dc 1) around. (37)
R19: In BLO of 3 ch. sts: dc 1, sc 1, dc 1. In both loops now: (sc 1, dc 1) around. (37)

R20-24: (sc 1, dc 1) around. (37)
[alternate which stitch you start with each round to maintain the griddle stitch pattern]

Sl st in next st, then fasten off and weave in the ends.

Thumb

Join your yarn to the 1st stitch of R17 of the mitt (at the opening of the thumb hole)

R18 {thumb}: (sc 1, dc 1) in first 11 sts, then dc 1 into the side of the mitt before the ch sts to add one more stitch. In FLO of the 3 ch sts: (sc 1, dc 1, sc 1). (15)
R19 {thumb}: (dc 1, sc 1) around. (15)
R20 {thumb}: (sc 1, dc 1) around. (15)

Sl st in next st, then fasten off. Sew up any gaps where the thumb meets the rest of the mitt, then weave in the ends.

I hope you’ll try out this griddle stitch mitt pattern since it’s very quick and only uses one skein of yarn. It’s a great project for getting back into fall and winter crafting!


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Comments

  • Gail jones says:

    Hi how could I adjust the pattern for small hands. Thank you

    • Kat says:

      Hello! For me, the easiest way is always to use thinner yarn and a smaller hook and follow the instructions as written. However, you can also adjust try adjusting the stitch counts in the pattern. So for these gloves, you would work fewer rows for the cuff, and then fewer rows in the starting round of the mitt (just make sure it’s an odd number). I would try the smaller hook and slightly thinner yarn first, like fingering weight instead of sport weight.

  • janet l white says:

    when doing the griddle stitch for fingerless gloves does(dc 1, sc 1) mean do both in same stitch, also row 9 do you do the stitch twice in same stitch

    • Kat says:

      In row 9 where it says “(dc 1, sc 1) in each of the next” it means to work BOTH the dc and the sc in each of those stitches, so yes you would do both into the same stitch. Same thing with the beginning of row 10. For other places, where it just says just “(dc 1, sc 1) around” or something similar, you’ll work one in each stitch, NOT work them both into the same stitch. I hope that clears it up a little bit, sorry for the confusion!

  • Kristina says:

    For round 18, do you (dc1, sc1) into the three chs? Or do you start round 19 at the 3ch mark?

    • Kat says:

      For round 18, when you ch 3, you will not work any stitches into the chain at that moment. Following the pattern, you continue working into the stitches from round 17 by skipping 11 of them and then working 1 dc into the 12th stitch. So what this will do is exclude those 11 skipped stitches from the rounds moving forward (you basically cut across the circle with the chain, so that a separate hole is formed for the thumb). Once you get to the beginning of round 19, at that point you will work into the chain as specified in the pattern, then continue on with the rest of the round. I hope that helps clear it up, but if you run into any more questions, definitely let me know!

  • logan says:

    Thank you so much for the pattern. I tried it out and it turned out amazing!!!!!!! I started making a bunch of these for me and my friends and they all love it too.

  • Victoria says:

    Thank you for the pattern. They are beautiful. I love that textured stitch and can’t wait to try these. Thanks again.

  • minolia says:

    how can I print this pattern, can noot crocket at my computer

    • Kat says:

      I believe to print something from the web, you can try right-clicking on the page, and there should be a print option. You could also copy the text into a Word or Google Doc document and print from there. I hope that helps!

  • Mary Taillac says:

    Hi. I don’t understand R2-8, where it says “without joining at the end of each round “.

    • Kat says:

      Hello! Some patterns will ask you to slip stitch to the 1st st when you reach the end of a round, so for these mitts, “without joining at the end of each round” means that you don’t slip stitch at the end. Once you reach the end of a round, you just work the first stitch of the next round per the instructions, without any slip stitch or chain in between. If you run into any other questions, please let me know!

  • Amanda says:

    Is there a way to modify this to make it smaller?

    • Kat says:

      Yes! You can make it smaller by either using thinner yarn & smaller hook, OR by working fewer rows on the cuff and fewer stitches for the rest of the mitt. For example, you could work 30 rows of the cuff instead of 38, and then when you sc around the edge of the cuff to start the rest of the mitt, sc 31 instead of 39. Work all the increases as specified in the pattern and you should be good to go, as long as you have an even number of rows for the cuff and odd number of stitches for the mitt.

  • Ruth says:

    Kat, I am in the UK and checked my conversion charts which told me to go out and buy our 4-ply yarn. The mitts cuff are made with 12 stitches, which are 4cm in length. Can you tell me how that is going to fit round anyone’s wrist. I feel this should be super chunky surely to fit? Please advise. Thank you.

    • Kat says:

      Hi Ruth, the 12 stitches represents the width of the cuff, rather than the length required to go around the wrist. You’ll work back and forth rows until you have a strip that is long enough to go around a wrist and then join the ends to form a ring. From there on, you’ll be working into one long side of the cuff for the rest of the mitt. 4-ply yarn should definitely work! I hope that helps, let me know if you run into any further questions!

  • Sally Martin says:

    how large of a skein?

    • Kat says:

      The original yarn I used was a 65 gram skein (185) yards and I used most of it. I made another set with fingering weight yarn (Wisdom Yarns Poems Sock) and used 150 yards from that one.

  • Debie says:

    These are wonderful, thank you! How do I adjust the pattern for smaller hands?

    • Kat says:

      Thank you Debie! I think the easiest way to adjust for smaller hands (depending on how much smaller they are) would be to try smaller yarn & hook and follow the same stitch count. I find that much easier personally 🙂 To make them a LOT smaller, you can do fewer rows on the cuff and a corresponding smaller number of stitches for the first round of the mitt. As long as you have an odd number, the pattern should work out!

  • Norma says:

    Just what I wanted

  • Ella says:

    I am in love with this pattern!! Just finished making the 3rd pair , which is the one I’m keeping because my friends demanded the earlier ones I made! Thanks for an awesome pattern 🙂

  • Deana Moore says:

    So gonna start these tonight!

  • Barbara says:

    Going to try this pattern for my mother, age 88, always cold jand

  • Debie McClure says:

    I love this pattern! I made myself and my fashion forward friend a pair last year. I’m making another pair for a perpetually cold coworker right now.

    Thank you!

  • Janine Burton says:

    Thanks for sharing this pattern! I am assuming by sport weight yarn, you mean #3 weight? Any suggestions for using #4 weight? Thanks!

    • Kat says:

      Yes, #3 weight! If you want to use #4 weight or other bulkier yarns, you could use a smaller hook, or you could also do fewer rows on the cuff/fewer stitches per row for the rest of the mitt. With the griddle stitch pattern, as long as you have an odd number in your row the pattern will work out. So for example if you started with 31 around the edge of the cuff instead of 39, and then followed the regular number of increases I think you should end up with the right size, but it may take a little experimentation!

  • Kim says:

    My new favorite pattern. These were so easy and comfortable. I used Lion Brand Cupcake yarn and 4mm hook (I stitch tight). They fit perfectly. The weight is perfect for when my hands get cold at work. I did modify the pattern a little, hope you don’t mind. Mitt R19 I stitched over the chain and then Thumb R18 I did a post st. I may have also put in a dec before and after those 3 sts to close the gaps so I wouldn’t have to do it later. Just make sure you end up with 15 total.

    • Kat says:

      Thank you so much! I don’t mind at all if you modify the pattern, it sounds like a great way to add on the thumb without gaps! I bet they look adorable with the Cupcake yarn. 🙂

  • Cami Priddy says:

    I’m kinda new at this crocheting thing, but love this pattern, because it’s not monotonous in the making, so thank you for sharing it! However, I don’t know what you mean by the phrase “without joining” that you refer to in the making of the mitt portion. Do you mean to cut it off, and rebegin with each seceding row?

    • Kat says:

      Often when you’re crocheting in the round, a pattern will say “join at the end of each row” which means that you’ll slip stitch the last stitch of the row into the first stitch, then ch.1 THEN continue with the next row.

      So in this case, when it says “without joining” it just means to keep going. You don’t do anything fancy at the end of the row (you don’t need to cut it), you just continue with the next stitch. I hope that helps! Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions!

  • Pauline says:

    Hi Thanks for this great pattern can you tell me how many stitches to the inch there is please so that i get the gauge write

    • Kat says:

      For these mitts, gauge should be about 10 stitches and 9 rows = 2 inches in the griddle stitch pattern. I’ve found that thinner sport weight yarn works best for me.

  • Carrie Flanagin says:

    Love the pattern first time I ever attempted to make gloves!

  • Kizzia says:

    Sorry if this is a silly question but are you working the mit section in the round or do you work back and forth and then stitch up at the end? Thank you!

    • Kat says:

      It’s not a silly question at all! The cuff is worked back and forth and stitched into a ring, BUT after that when you get to the main part of the mitt, it’s worked in the round. I plan to make another pair and add some more notes soon, because the transition from cuff to mitt is a bit tricky. Essentially for most of the mitt you’ll be working around one side of the cuff in a circle, and continue working in the round for the rest of the mitt.

  • Lois says:

    Just starting pattern and questioning only 12 stitches for the cuff
    And a small 3.75 hook??! Am I reading this sting?!

    • Kat says:

      Yes, that’s correct! The cuff is worked back and forth on the short edge as one long strip, then it’s joined into a circle. So the 12 stitches is how wide the cuff is, only about 1-2 inches. The sport weight yarn I used for these is pretty thin, I think you could even go down to fingering with the same stitch count. So the small hook helps make a very dense and warm fabric. I hope that helps! Let me know if you run into any other questions!

  • Becky says:

    What kind & how much yarn did you use & what size hook. I don’t see that information anywhere. Thank you.

    • Kat says:

      Oops, looks like I just had them in the PDF on Ravelry, but not the actual post! Sorry about that, I’ve just added that info here. I used a 3.75mm hook and 1 skein of sport weight yarn. The specific yarn I used was Premier Yarns Serenity Garden (Sport) in “Earth”, but it looks like that line has recently been discontinued. Any sport weight or even baby or light worsted yarn should work!

  • Anita says:

    Thank you for this. I do a lot of fundraising for a local children’s hospice and I am sure these will go down really well.

  • Larna says:

    Hey 🙂 Just wanted to say I enjoyed following this pattern, It’s pretty chilly atm in England so this is perfect thanks x